Doggie First Aid Kit

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Postby anissa » July 17th, 2006, 2:47 am

Ive been thinking of putting together a Doggie first aid kit (one for home, and one for travel), and was looking for ideas on what to add. Neither of my dogs have any alergeries or health issues (that Im aware of) so I guess I just need some basics.

How many of you actually have a first aid kit put together for your pets?
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Postby Marinepits » July 17th, 2006, 7:57 am

I have a cabinet in the kitchen devoted to dog meds and first aid gear.

Rubbing alcohol
Hydrogen peroxide (to make them vomit if necessary)
Pure saline solution (to flush eyes)
Benedryl (cream and pills)
Rimadyl and/or Deramax (for pain)
Clavamox and Cefa tabs (antibiotics)
antibiotic creams
various bandages (because they are klutzes)
nail clipper and heavy duty nail file

plus their various daily meds for arthritis and Mac's allergy meds

I think that about covers it. :D
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Postby Maryellen » July 17th, 2006, 8:58 am

thats a great first aid kit marinepits!!! the ones i have are basically the same set up, with eye flushes and stuff i got mine from the internet, so no antibiotics were included..just lots of liquid stuff bandages, etc..
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Postby anissa » July 17th, 2006, 3:50 pm

You found one pre-made on the net ME?
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Postby Maryellen » July 17th, 2006, 3:54 pm

yeah, it was like $40.... dont forget to add the small bottle of vodka.... ... &Form=MSNH
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Postby anissa » July 17th, 2006, 4:17 pm

Maryellen wrote:yeah, it was like $40.... dont forget to add the small bottle of vodka....

For me.. or the first aid kit? :P
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Postby Maryellen » July 17th, 2006, 7:11 pm

both silly. one bottle in the first aid kit for when you are away and you need it, and one bottle at home.... LOL
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Postby mnp13 » July 17th, 2006, 7:44 pm


Inside me is a thin woman trying to get out. I usually shut the bitch up with a martini.
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Postby SisMorphine » July 17th, 2006, 8:26 pm

mnp13 wrote:vodka?

Yeas, please.
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Postby mnp13 » July 17th, 2006, 8:46 pm

SisMorphine wrote:
mnp13 wrote:vodka?

Yeas, please.


I"m with you there!!

Inside me is a thin woman trying to get out. I usually shut the bitch up with a martini.
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Postby pitbullmamaliz » July 17th, 2006, 8:48 pm

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Postby anissa » July 17th, 2006, 9:40 pm

Well if Im packing it for me.. Im packing a LARGE bottle!
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Postby gazar » August 1st, 2006, 10:46 pm

A good first aid kit is a must to be prepared for emergencies. The more complete your first aid kits are the better you can deal with emergencies as they come up. The best time to assemble those kits is now. If you wait until an emergency happens, you will be too late. If you have animals, then supplies for them should be included in both your car and your home first aid kits.

The primary objectives of first aid are to relieve suffering, to save a life and to prevent further physical or psychological injuries until you can reach or be reached by qualified health care personnel. These goals will help you assemble your first aid kits.
Consider all of the possible emergencies that can happen.

PLEASE consult your own vet about appropriate uses and doses before giving your dog any of these medications. Also be sure to become familiar with the side effects and Adverse Reactions before using any of these medications -- while they are considered fairly safe and are not prescription medications, there may be some dogs that will react badly to some of these drugs.

First aid kits should be kept in containers that are labeled as such. Small containers that can be used for first aid kits can be found as cosmetic boxes, sewing boxes, tackle boxes, tool boxes, etc. If you purchase your supplies first, you will have a better idea what size box you will need to find to store them. The first thing you need for a good first aid kit is a suitable container. We use a fishing tackle-type box. On the outside, with permanent marker, label the box "Animal First Aid" on all sides -- in an emergency someone else might have to locate and use this kit.

Tape to the inside of the box lid, a card with the following information:

1) Your name, address, phone number
2) A name & phone number of someone to contact, in an emergency, who will take care of your dogs if you are incapacitated
3) Your dog's names and any information about any medications they take, any allergies or significant medical conditions they have.
4) The name & phone number of your vet.

It is also a good idea to keep copies of your dog's vaccination records, including a copy of the Rabies Certificate, in or with the First Aid kit, or in a packet in your car. In addition the emergency contact and vet information are clearly posted on my refrigerator door at home where anyone who needs it can find the information. You never know when you may be incapacitated in an accident and your dogs may be in the hands of a complete stranger who will need this information.

Keep the BOX in a single location. Everyone should know where it is.

Here are some basic items that all FIRST AID BAGS should contain:

Benedryl caplets (if dog gets stung by insect)
up to 1 – 2 mg per pound every 8 hours to treat allergies, itching, etc.
Can also be used as a tranquilizer when the dosage reduced.
(feline dosage - same as canine dosage)
Buffered (enteric coated) Aspirin - 5 mg. per pound every 12 hours
for pain relief; antiflammatory. [Maximum dosage one 325 mg tablet/33lbs (max 2) every 12 hours - for small dogs you might want to use "Half Prin" which is an enteric coated aspirin with only 81mg.]
[Not for use in cats – poisonous to felines]
[Note acetomenophin is poisonous to most animals]
Imodium AD 2mg - 1 caplet per 30 lbs every 8 hours to relieve diarrhea
Kaeopectate - 1 ml per pound every 2 hours for diarrhea
(feline dosage - same as canine)
Dramamine - up to 50 mg every 8 hours to reduce motion sickness
(feline dosage - up to 10 mg every 8 hours)
Mineral Oil - up to 4 tbs. daily to eliminate constipation (as a laxative) do not use long-term (feline dosage - up to 2 tsps. daily)
Di Gel Liquid - up to 4 tbs. every 8 hours for antacid and anti-gas
(feline dosage - up to 2 tbs. every 8 hours) Tablets can be used.
Pepto Bismol - 1 tsp. per 5 pounds every 6 hours for relief of vomiting, stomach gas or diarrhea. Tablets can be used. Dogs only. Has aspirin in it.
Ipecac syrup (use 1 teaspoon per 10 lb. dog to induce vomiting).
Hydrogen peroxide 3% (to induce vomiting)
Antiseptic/anti bacterial hand wipes
Pedyalite powder (to add to water for hot days to replenish electrolytes)
Arnica Montana 30 (homeopathic remedy for either dogs or humans
for muscle exhaustion or injury (trauma) ( give 2 drops on tongue every 15 min.).
Styptic powder (to stop serious bleeding from cuts)
Adolph's Meat Tenderizer (make a paste out of it and apply to bug
bites immediately after the animal is bitten)
Homemade ear drying solution
(1 part rubbing alcohol, 1 part white vinegar)
Ottomax (ointment for ear infections)
Nolvasan Otic (ear cleaning solution)
Opticlear (eye wash for dogs and cats)
Chlorasone eye ointment (or a similar cortisone-antibiotic eye ointment)
Nolvasan First Aid Creme (topical)
Terramycin (antibiotic skin ointment))
Gentocin topical spray
Hydrocortisone topical spray (such as Cortaid brand)
Derma Cool Spray w/Lidocane (Topical Wound Dressing)
Betadine Solution (contains 10% povidone-iodine and is a topical iodophor microbicide.
Rubbing alcohol
Alcohol prep pads
Green soap - a mild antibacterial soap for cleaning skin, wounds
Bag balm (all-purpose uses good for foot pads & scrapes)
Vaseline for coating the thermometer
Towels (terry and paper)
Absorbent pad (such as baby bed pad)
Unopened baby blanket (warm & very clean in case of shock)
Emergency space blanket (for shock / to retain body heat)
Latex surgical gloves
Feminine mini-pads (great for large cuts or wrapping around a
finger/dog leg and they do not stick to the wound
Conforming bandages
An old sock (foot wrapper)
Vet flex bandage (non-constricting & flexible)
Sterile Gauze Pads (the larger 4" size is better since it can easily be cut smaller if necessary)
Rolls of gauze or cling gauze bandage(1-2")
Adhesive tape
Surgical tape

New Skin liquid bandage (useful for patching abrasions on pads.& tail tips)
Cotton, cotton balls
Cotton swabs
Iodine prep pads
Bandage scissors
Blunt tipped scissors
(a must for animal first aid - used for cutting hair
away from wounds)
Hemostat (useful for pulling ticks, thorns, large splinters, etc)
Safety pins in several sizes
Tweeszer(good ones)
Nail clippers (dog and human)
Otoscope (for examining ears
Rectal thermometer
Medicinal syringe
(for liquid medications)
Rubber bulb ear syringe - used for flushing eyes, ears, wounds
Plastic baggies for stool samples, etc.
Penlight flashlight (to check inside ears and eyes & other small areas)
Emery board
Instant hot and cold compresses
Gel Ice Pack
Hot water bottle
(in dire emergency)
Wood splint (paint stirrers)
Plastic Vet Collar (to prevent chewing of skin, stitches, etc.)
Bitter Apple (keeps them away from an area on their body that you do not want them chewing on)
Grooming implements (comb, brush, etc.)
Soft muzzle (for the protection of care giver)
Spare leash & collar
5 gallons fresh water from home
Real-Lemon (tablespoon in a gallon of water will pretty much ensure
that your dog will not get an upset stomach from strange water)
Canned pumpkin, a quarter can - the pure-not the stuff for pies.
(A home remedy for both constipation and diarrhea)

Phone Numbers
for the Animal Poison Hotline & Poison Control for Pets
(800/548-2423 or 900/680-0000 both numbers charge a fee).

Pet First Aid - Some Life-Saving Tips

Pet First Aid is on-the-spot care until professional help is available. Do you know what to do for your pet in an emergency? If you are in there at the right time and you know what to do you can save your pet's life. Every pet owner should have a comprehensive book on first aid for pets and keep it handy. One of the MOST important factors in evaluating your pet's condition is to know what is normal for him or her. Take time BEFORE an emergency to check your pet's normal temperature, pulse, color and respiration.

VITAL Signs for Cats & Dogs

1. Normal heart rate ranges between 80 to 140 beats per minutes for a dog and between 120 and 180 for a cat. Heartbeat can be felt by placing your hands around the chest just behind the elbow and gently pressing

2. Normal body temperature for a cat or dog is between 100.5 and 102.5F Apply lubricant to the bulb of a rectal thermometer and gently insert 2 inches into the rectum, holding the animal, its tail, and the thermometer steady. The reading can be taken after 1 or 2 minutes

3. To check for respiration observe movement in the chest. Placing a thread or hair in front of the nose will detect even the slightest flow of air.

Mouth-to-Nose Respiration

1. Remove any mucus or foreign material from the mouth
2. Pull the tongue forward
3. Place your mouth over the animal's nostrils and blow a steady stream of air for 2 to 3 seconds
4. Remove your mouth for 2 to 3 seconds and allow air to exit the animal's lungs
5. Continue until normal breathing resumes which can take as long as an hour.
6. Check the heart throughout and apply external heart massage if needed
7. Treat for shock and seek veterinary help

Heimlich Maneuver

1. Hold the animal against you and clasp your hands around the upper abdomen; or lay the animal on a firm surface and place one hand on top of the other, with the heel of the bottom hand placed into the midline of the abdomen just below the rib cage
2. Forcibly push or lift upward one or more times to dislodge the object
3. If available, have an assistant open the animal's mouth, hold its tongue and lower jaw and remove the object with fingers or forceps
4 Give artificial respiration if needed
5. Veterinarian should check the animal for injury

If you suspect POISONING

1.Always call a veterinarian or poison-control center immediately
2.If you are told to give liquids, use a spoon or syringe or basting tube, hold the animal firmly, grasp the mouth and keep the head tilted back. For dogs, form a pocket by pulling the corner of the mouth away from the jaw. Keep the head elevated and stroke the throat to encourage swallowing. NEVER give liquids to an animal that is not alert
3.Keep a 3 percent solution of hydrogen peroxide on hand to mix with water as an emetic
4.Do not induce vomiting if a strong acid or alkali or a petroleum-based product has been ingested. Milk or water may be given in most cases to wash the esophagus.

Transporting and injured animal
When approaching an injured animal, always remember that pain and fright may cause even the most mild-mannered pet to bite or scratch. Approach an injured animal calmly and slowly and ever put your face in a vulnerable position as even a partially paralyzed animal may be able to lunge. If an injured animal appears too dangerous to handle on your own, then DON'T. Contact your local humane society or animal-control center for help.

USE A BLANKET: A blanket held at the four corners makes an effective stretcher. A smaller animal like a cat may be wrapped in a coat or towel and the placed in a box to keep quiet.

DOGS: If the dog is small and calm, it can be carefully lifted by scooping it up gently, keeping its back straight and level. If broken bones are suspected, support the dog's trunk and let the affected limb dangle freely. Heavier dogs may be carried by pulling them onto a blanket or sturdy sheet. By holding tightly at the corners, you and a partner can use the blanket as a stretcher.

Lift a cat by firmly holding the scruff of the neck with one hand and supporting the underside of the body with the other. Frectious cats may be covered with a towel before being handled and placed in a sturdy box or carrier. Wear gloves while handling such a cat if at all possible.


Do not feed your dog for twelve to twenty-four hours following heavy vomiting. At the end of twelve hours , you can offer a very small amount of soft, bland food such as cooked rice and skinless chicken breast, pasta, or potatoes mixed with low-fat cottage cheese (9-to1 ratio). If your dog keeps this small meal down for about four hours, another small meal can be offered, then another about four hours later. If no further vomiting occurs, the next day's meals can be normal-sized portion of bland food and the following day you can return your dog to a regular diet. Water should be offered only in small amounts but frequently in order to combat the tendency to dehydrate that accompanies vomiting. Large amount of food or water distend the already irritated stomach and usually cause vomiting to recur. An easy way to have water available in small portions is to place ice cubes in the water bowl and allow the dog to drink the liquid that accumulates as the cubes melt.

All of the above information has been culled from different sites stating that it can be used for the welfare and care of animals but not for profit. :)
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Postby anissa » August 2nd, 2006, 12:03 pm

Thats one hell of a list gazar! Thanks for taking the time to collect all of that information, I am sure it'll help a few of us with putting our kits together.
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Postby gazar » August 2nd, 2006, 12:34 pm

You are very welcome. I hope that you never have to use it, but it is here for you if you do. I would suggest copying it off and keeping it with your First aid kit. When an emergency happens, sometimes our thought process stops but we will remember the first aid kit and will have the info right there if needed. :)
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Postby Malli » August 2nd, 2006, 1:12 pm

remember, a strong, piece of gauze can be made into a turnique or a muzzle ;) Even our dogs, our stoic, never would bite a person, sweetest angels ever, if they are in enough pain, they can bite, if the medical issue is bad (broken bone, large laceration etc ) just muzzle your dog. It can also calm a panicked animal and make them less likely to struggle.
I'd say vetwrap is one of the essentials to have, its amazing stuff!


Oh, BTW, I do have a first aid kit for Os and always take at least some vetwrap (coflex, whatever), antihistamine, and gauze...
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Postby MissLelee » November 10th, 2008, 5:02 pm

I am going on my first road trip with my puppy :soExcited: ... so this is so great to have.
I have printed it off and getting my shopping list together. I want to be prepared if anything happens. Thanks for the great info
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Postby SvcDogSawyer » November 13th, 2008, 6:50 pm

I would also suggest an extra leash & collar and maybe an inflatable splint.
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Postby kera09 » July 7th, 2009, 4:15 pm

wow that was awesome! i do have quite a few things from the list! we went camping a few yrs back and ava (in my avatar) pretty much ripped half her pad off, thank god i was prepared but i was wrapping her foot every 5 seconds bc it didnt stop her lol
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Postby TheRedQueen » April 9th, 2011, 12:47 pm

I came back to this thread, as I just emptied my doggy first aid kit bag ("vet bag" is what we call it here)...and threw out old medications, and stuff that got grungy in the bag (something had opened and made a lot of stuff un-usable).

I just wanted to mention that Pepto-bismol is a better choice for first aid kits rather than Immodium (for diarrhea) collies, Aussies, McNabs, other herding breeds, etc can't handle Immodium if they have the MDR-1 gene, which is the same gene that causes problems with ivermectin. Since you never know when you may have to pull out your first aid kit and help someone else's dog...why not just put something in that doesn't cause harm to any dog? :)
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